Suddenly retinol skin care products seem to be everywherePromising clear, radiant and “young” skin.
But what is science behind these statements? And are there any risks?
You may also have heard that retinol can increase your risk of sunburn and even worsen acne.
For some people, retinol can help reduce the appearance of fine lines. But that will not suit everyone. Here’s what you need to know.
What is retinol?
Retinol is part of a family of chemical compounds called retinoids. These are derivative or linked has Vitamin A, an essential nutrient for healthy skin, vision and immune function.
All retinoids work because The enzymes of our skin convert them In their “active” form, retinoic acid.
You can buy retinol in creams and other over -the -counter topical products.
These are often promoted like “anti-aging“Because retinol can help reduce the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles and even complexion (for example, solar stains or acne scars).
It also has an exfoliating effect, which means that it can help unclog pores.
Stronger retinoid treatments that target acne will require a prescription because they contain retinoic acid, which is regulated as a drug in the UNITED STATES,, European Union,, United Kingdom And Australia.
How is retinol used in skin care?
One of most common The claims on retinol are that it help has Reduce visible signs of aging.
How does this work?
With age, the skin barrier is weakening, which makes it more subject to drought, injuries and irritation.
Retinol can help counter This natural thinning by stimulating the proliferation of keratinocytes – cells that form the external skin layer and protect against damage and loss of water.
Retinol too stimulation Collagen production (a key protein that creates scaffolding that keeps the skin firm and elastic) and fibroblasts (cells that produce collagen and support the structure of the skin).
It also increases the speed at which the skin loses old cells and replaces them with new.
Over time, these processes Help reduce fine lines, fade dark spots and even skin complexion. It can also make the skin clearer.
Although effective, this does not happen overnight.
You may also have heard of a “retinol purge” – a temporary push of acne when you start using topical retinoids.
Studies be found The skin can become irritated and acne temporarily aggravates in some cases. But more research must be done to understand this link.
So, is retinol sure?
At typical skin care concentrations (0.1 to 0.3%), side effects tend to be soft.
Most people with irritation (such as redness, dryness or coat) when starting retinol can strengthen tolerance over time. This process is often called “retinisation”.
However, retinol increases the sensitivity of the skin to UV radiation (known as photosensitivity). This increased reactivity can cause sunburn, irritation and increased risk of hyperpigmentation (darker spots or plates).
For this reasonThe daily use of a wide spectrum sunscreen (SPF30 or more) is highly recommended when using retinol products.
Who should avoid retinol?
Adolescents and children generally do not need retinol, except specifically prescribed by a doctor, for example, for the treatment of acne.
People with sensitive skin or conditions such as eczema (dry skin, itching and fiery) and rosacea (chronic redness and sensitivity) can find retinol Too irritating.
The use of retinol products alongside other skin care treatments, such as alpha-hydroxy acids, can overexfoliate your skin and damage it.
Above all, the active form of retinol, retinoic acid, is teratogenic (which means that it can cause congenital malformations). Over -the -counter retinol products are also not recommended during pregnancy or breastfeeding.
Choose and store retinol products judiciously
Since retinol is classified as a cosmetic ingredient, companies are not required to disclose its concentration in their products.
The European Union is expect to introduce New regulations which will limit the concentration of retinol In 0.3%cosmetic facial products.
These are precautionary measures to limit Exposure to vulnerable groups, such as pregnant women, taking into account the risk of congenital malformations.
It is therefore recommended to use products that clearly indicate that the retinol concentration is between 0.1% and 0.3%.
Retinol is also notoriously unstable molecule which degrades with exposure to air, light or heat.
Choosing a product with an airtight light protective packaging will contribute to potential degradation problems that could cause inactivity or damage.
What is the safest way to try retinol?
The key is to go low and slow down: a quantity of poison of a low concentration product (0.1%) once or twice a week, preferably at night (to avoid exposure to UV), then the frequency and concentration can be increased (to a maximum of 0.3%) as the skin adapts.
Use of a moisturizer After retinol, helps reduce drought and irritation.
Wearing a sunscreen every day is a must when using retinol to avoid photosensitivity.
If you experience persistent redness, burns or coat, it is best to stop using the product and consult your doctor or a dermatologist for personalized advice.
Laurence OrlandoLecturer, formulation and development of products, analytical methods, Monash University; Zanfina AdemiProfessor of health economics, Monash UniversityAnd Zoe PorterLecturer, pharmacy and pharmaceutical science, Monash University
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